FITS 496 - Special Topics in the Fashion Industry's Science & Technology

"In the two decades between its debut performance and the death of impresario Sergei Diaghilev in 1929, the Ballets Russes was an unrivalled sensation in Paris and around the world. But while scholarly attention has often centered on the links between Diaghilev's troupe and modernist art and music, there has been surprisingly little analysis of the Ballets' role in the area of tastemaking and trendsetting. Ballets Russes Style addresses this gap, revealing the extent of the ensemble's influence in arenas of high style--including fashion, interior design, advertising, and the decorative arts..."
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Claude Monet is one of the most famous painters in history, and he is considered a pioneer of the Impressionist movement. What is Impressionism, and how does Monet's work reflect its purest principles? Readers discover the answers to these and other questions about Monet's life and work as they examine the stories behind some of his most beloved paintings. Colorful examples of his work and photographs from his life fill the pages, alongside annotated quotes from art historians, other artists, and Monet himself. Detailed sidebars appeal to young artists and provide more fascinating details about Monet's life.
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Since his death 100 years ago, Cézanne has become the most famous painter of the nineteenth century. He was born in Aix-en-Provence in 1839 and the happiest period of his life was his early youth in Provence, in company with Emile Zolá, another Italian. Following Zolá's example, Cézanne went to Paris in his twenty-first year. During the Franco-Prussian war he deserted the military, dividing his time between open-air painting and the studio. He said to Vollard, an art dealer, "I'm only a painter. Parisian wit gives me a pain. Painting nudes on the banks of the Arc [a river near Aix] is all I could ask for." Encouraged by Renoir, one of the first to appreciate him, he exhibited with the impressionists in 1874 and in 1877. He was received with derision, which deeply hurt him. Cézanne's ambition, in his own words, was "to make out of Impressionism something as solid and durable as the paintings of the museums." His aim was to achieve the monumental in a modern language of glowing, vibrating tones. Cézanne wanted to retain the natural colour of an object and to harmonise it with the various influences of light and shade trying to destroy it; to work out a scale of tones expressing the mass and character of the form...
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Degas was closest to Renoir in the impressionist's circle. He started his apprenticeship in 1853 at the studio of Louis-Ernest Barrias and, beginning in 1854, studied under Louis Lamothe, who revered Ingres above all others and transmitted his adoration for this master to Edgar Degas. Starting in 1854, Degas frequently traveled to Italy where he copied from the Old Masters. His drawings and sketches already revealed very clear preferences, especially in Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Mantegna. After his first compositions, which depicted horses, Degas made yet another discovery. His first painting devoted solely to the ballet was Le Foyer de la danse à l'Opéra de la rue Le Peletier (The Dancing Anteroom at the Opera on Rue Le Peletier, Musée d'Orsay, Paris). In a carefully constructed composition, with groups of fi gures balancing one another to the left and the right, each ballet dancer is involved in her own activity, each moving in a separate manner from the others. Extended observation and an immense number of sketches were essential to executing such a task. Ballet would remain his passion until the end.
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"From diapers to Dior, saris to serapes, the world of clothing is nearly as vast and as ancient as the human race. Tracing the stylistic and functional threads that unite clothing across time and cultures, as well as delving into the divergent styles and significance of apparel, this A to Z encyclopedia is the essential resource for exploring the relationship between culture and couture..."

Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times.This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.
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In the course of the twentieth century, Italy succeeded in establishing itself as one of the world's preeminent fashion capitals, despite the centuries-old predominance of Paris and London. This book traces the story of how this came to be, guiding readers through the major cultural and economic revolutions of twentieth-century Italy and how they shaped the consumption practices and material lives of everyday Italians. In order to understand the specific character of the "Italian model," Emanuela Scarpellini considers not only aspects of craftsmanship, industrial production and the evolution of styles, but also the economic and cultural changes that have radically transformed Italy and the international scene within a few decades: the post-war economic miracle, the youth revolution, the consumerism of the 1980s, globalization, the environmentalism of the 2000s and the Italy of today. Written in a lively style, full of references to cinema, literature, art and the world of media, this work offers the first comprehensive overview of a phenomenon that has profoundly shaped recent Italian history.

The Life, Times and Work of Auguste Renoir, an eBook in the Discovering Art series, provides an accessible illustrated introduction to the life and work of Renoir. The book details his life including his time spent at the studio of Charles Gleyre alongside his fellow impressionists Monet, Sisley and Bazille. Richly illustrated, the book includes the impressionist paintings done in his 30s and 40s such as La Loge and On the Terrace as well as his final masterpiece The Bathers, completed shortly before his death. View this eBook on your iPad or Android to fully appreciate the lavish full colour illustrations.
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"Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers..."

Few artists have exerted as much influence on modern art as Paul Cézanne. Picasso, Braque, and Matisse all acknowledged a profound debt to his painting, and many historians regard him as the father of modernism. This new biography reexamines Cézanne's life and art, discussing the key events and people who shaped his work and placing his oeuvre in the context of nineteenth and early twentieth-century art and culture. Jon Kear begins with Cézanne's formative years in Provence, highlighting the deep and abiding impressions the landscapes of the region would have on his paintings. He follows him through his turbulent years as a young artist in Paris, where he would create the larger-than-life artistic persona--through a rugged painting style detailing explicit subjects--that would become a lasting mythology for him throughout all of his phases. He looks closely at Cézanne's relationships with Edouard Manet--whom he both emulated and critiqued--and the writer Émile Zola, as well as his close collaboration with Camille Pissarro. Above all, he tells the story of his life as a part of the pivotal shift toward the twentieth century, illuminating how much his work and ideas helped to usher it in.
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...Our sense of smell is crucial to our survival. We can smell fear, disease, food. Fragrance is also entertainment. We can smell an expensive bottle of perfume at a high-end department store. Perhaps it reminds us of our favorite aunt. A memory in a bottle is a powerful thing. Megan Volpert's Perfume carefully balances the artistry with the science of perfume. The science takes us into the neurology of scent receptors, how taste is mostly smell, the biology of illnesses that impact scent sense, and the chemistry of making and copying perfume. The artistry of perfume involves the five scent families and symbolism, subjectivity in perfume preference, perfume marketing strategies, iconic scents and perfumers, why the industry is so secretive, and Volpert's own experiments with making perfume...

In the first critical history of French ready-made fashion, Alexis Romano examines an array of cultural sources, including surviving garments, fashion magazines, film, photography and interviews, to weave together previously disparate historical narratives. The resulting volume - Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women - situates the ready-made in wider cultural discourses of art, design, urbanism, technology and international policy. Through a close study of fashion magazines, including Vogue and Elle, Romano reveals how the French ready-made and the genre of fashion photography in France developed in tandem. Analyses of representations of space, women and prêt-à-porter in such magazines - alongside other cultural ephemera such as contemporary film, documentary photography and family photographs - demonstrate that popular conceptions of fashion and modernity shifted in the period 1945-68. By connecting national and personal histories, Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women reveals the importance of the ready-made to broader narratives of postwar reconstruction, national identity, gender and international dialogue.

A fascinating exploration of the natural history of scent and human perceptions of fragrance from the viewpoint of plant and pollinator Plants have long harnessed the chemical characteristics of aromatic compounds to shape the world around them. Frankincense resin from the genus Boswellia seals injured tissues and protects trees from invading pathogens. Jasmine produces a molecule called linalool that attracts pollinating moths with its flowery scent. Tobacco uses a similarly sweet-smelling compound called benzyl acetone to attract pollinators. Only recently in the evolutionary history of plants, however, have humans learned to co-opt their fragrances to seduce, heal, protect, and alter moods themselves. In this wide-ranging and accessible new book, biologist-turned-perfumer Elise Vernon Pearlstine turns our human-centered perception of fragrance on its head and investigates plants' evolutionary reasons for creating aromatic molecules. Delving into themes of spirituality, wealth, power, addiction, royalty, fantasy, and more, Pearlstine uncovers the natural history of aromatic substances and their intersection with human culture and civilization

Opera is often regarded as the pinnacle of high art. A "Western" genre with global reach, it is where music and drama come together in unique ways, supported by stellar singers and spectacular scenic effects. Yet it is also patently absurd - why should anyone break into song on the dramaticstage? - and shrouded in mystique. In this engaging and entertaining guide, renowned music scholar Tim Carter unravels its many layers to offer a thorough introduction to Italian opera from the seventeenth to the early twentieth centuries.Eschewing the technical musical detail that all too often dominates writing on opera, Carter begins instead where the composers themselves did: with the text. Walking readers through the relationship between music and poetry that lies at the heart of any opera, Carter then offers explorations offive of the most enduring and emblematic Italian operas: Monteverdi's The Coronation of Poppea; Handel's Julius Caesar in Egypt; Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro; Verdi's Rigoletto; and Puccini's La Boheme. Shedding light on the creative collusions and collisions involved in bringing opera to thestage, the various, and varying, demands of the text and music, and the nature of its musical drama, Carter also shows how Italian opera has developed over the course of music history. Complete with synopses, cast lists, and suggested further reading for each work discussed, Understanding ItalianOpera is a must-read for anyone with an interest in and love for this glorious art.

"CultureShock! Italy is the must-have guide for anyone living or working in Italy and who wants to decipher this diverse and rich country. This book will guide you through the highs and lows of adapting to Italian culture, offering useful tips and suggestions along the way. Learn about the geographical diversity of the country and how to hire a geometra for all your accommodation needs. Navigate your way through Italian body language and discover what it really means. Understand Italian family values and pick up tips on business etiquette. Through CultureShock! Italy, you will not only understand the country and its people, but learn how to adapt to and appreciate its unique and valuable qualities."

The 'CultureShock ' series is a dynamic and indispensable range of guides for those travellers who are looking to truly understand the countries they are visiting. Each title explains the customs, traditions, social and business etiquette in a lively and informative style.

The Fashion Insiders' Guides are carefully curated compendiums of the current hotspots, classic haunts, and hidden gems of the world's greatest fashion destinations. A former Parisian living in New York, French Vogue correspondent Carole Sabas was often approached by friends and colleagues on their way to Paris for Fashion Week, looking for the best place for a quick facial, early morning yoga, or to meet a friend for a drink. So many people asked, in fact, that she produced a small guide filled with advice, which she gave out for free. Requests for more information and other cities came pouring in. Abrams is now making Sabas's Paris and New York guides available to everyone, with expanded content including chapters such as "Eating and Drinking," "Beauty," "Health," "Shopping," "Art," and an eclectic selection of odds and ends called "Might Be Useful One Day." Written with a light touch and in a friendly tone, each entry includes a description of the recommended spots with hints about when to go, who to ask for, and what to get, as well as location and contact information. The inclusion of additional advice from local fashion celebrities on their favorite places to frequent puts readers confidently in-the-know. Peppered throughout with drawings by a noted and local fashion illustrator, these beautifully designed guides will be the must-have accessories of the season.

Written by outspoken, authoritative experts, Frommer’s Italy 2016 shows travelers how to experience the country the way the locals do. This classic Frommer's series includes exact prices; candid reviews of the best restaurants, attractions and hotels in every price range (from hostels to guest-accepting palazzos); and dozens of detailed maps. We also include advice the tourist board wouldn’t approve of: which sites to skip, how to avoid the crowds, and how to stretch your travel budget further, whether you’re on a lavish honeymoon or backpacking through The Boot. Includes a fold-out map. To La Dolce Vita!

"...All of the detailed information you need is here about the hotels, restaurants, shopping, sightseeing. But we also lead you to new discoveries, turning corners you haven't turned before, helping you to interact with the world in new ways. That's what makes our Adventure Guides unique. Milan Cathedral is the largest in Europe after St. Peters, and La Scala opera house is here as well. Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper is in Milan, along with medieval palace museums, filled with art by Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio and other great artists. Much, much more awaits you. This is a comprehensive guide to one of the most fascinating destinations in all of Europe. It provides everything you'll ever need to know for planning a trip to this amazing city, from places to stay and eat, and practical travel advice, to what to pack and when to go. It also features up-to-date information on all the exciting activities and adventures just waiting to be enjoyed - from exploring the fashion capital of Milan with its elegant shopping, through visiting the stunning Lakes Como and Garda with their fabulous Roman villas and beautiful vistas, to discovering the hidden treasures of the region's unforgettable palaces, churches and museums..."